Revisiting the Gaze: Feminism, Fashion & the Female Body

28-29 June 2017, Chelsea College of Arts, UAL

*Full Programme and Speaker Abstracts: Download PDF*

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Wednesday 28 June

9.00-10.00: REGISTRATION, outside Banqueting Hall

10.00: WELCOME AND OPENING REMARKS, Banqueting Hall

10.15-11.15: KEYNOTE PAPER, Banqueting Hall

  • Dr. Maria Walsh, Chelsea College of Arts, UAL
    A Cartography of the Gaze: Diffuse and/or Curious?

11.30-1.15: PARALLEL SESSIONS, PART 1 

1A: UNDRESSING, PLEASURE, AND THE GAZE
11.30-1.15, Parallel Session, Banqueting Hall
  • Dr. Barbara Brownie, University of Hertfordshire
    Choreographed Undressing: How the nature of observation informs the character of undressing
  • Dr. Ilya Parkins, University of British Columbia
    Un/Knowing Self and Other through Boudoir Photography: Ethics and the Neoliberal Feminine
  • Sophie Swoffer, De Montfort University, Leicester
    ‘It would have been quicker to just hire a stripper’: The body of the female artist and its challenge to the misogynistic gaze
1B: VIOLENCE AND THE GAZE
11.30-1.15, Parallel Session, Red Room
  • Arpita Sinha, Fashion Model & MA Graduate in English Literature, Kolkata
    Disfigured Faces on the Ramp: Marketing Gender Violence and Feel-Good Feminism
  • Dr. Rosa Nogués, Chelsea College of Arts, UAL
    Killing looks: Marlene McCarty’s ‘Murder Girls’
1C: PREGNANCY, MOTHERHOOD & THE GAZE
11.30-1.15, Parallel Session, Lecture Theatre
  • Maureen Brewster, Parsons School of Design, New York
    Making Lemonade?: Beyoncé’s Pregnancy Announcements as Response to the Postfeminist Media Gaze
  • Lana Locke, Chelsea College of Arts, UAL
    Film Screening: Mother’s Milk (2016)
  • Tessa Nunn, Duke University, North Carolina
    Pregnant Situations in Varda’s and Poirier’s Film Creations

1.15-2.15: LUNCH, outside Banqueting Hall

2.15-3.45: PARALLEL SESSIONS, PART TWO

2A: THE VEILED BODY
2.15-3.45, Parallel Session, Banqueting Hall
  • Dr. Nazli Alimen, University of Helsinki
    Understandings and Practices of Veiling: Observant Muslim Women in Turkey
  • Dr. Azadeh Fatehrad, Artist, Curator and Researcher, London
    Women’s Body: The alienated system of ‘looking’ in post-revolutionary Iran (1979 – present)
2B: THE SENSES, AFFECT AND THE HAPTIC GAZE
2.15-3.45, Parallel Session, Red Room
  • Tamara Tyrer, Central St Martins, UAL
    Film screenings: Chorine (2016) and Technological Tornado Woman (2017)
  • Dr. Lucia Ruggerone, Robert Gordon University, Aberdeen
    Resisting the gaze, exploring how clothes make us feel
  • Dr. Sara Chong Kwan, London College of Fashion, UAL
    Negotiating the gaze: The wearer’s multi-sensory perspective

3.45-4.15: TEA AND COFFEE, outside Banqueting Hall 

4.15-5.30: KEYNOTE PAPER + END-OF-DAY DISCUSSION, Banqueting Hall

  • Professor Reina Lewis, London College of Fashion, UAL
    The Female Religious Gaze?: The pleasure and pitfalls of recognisability

5.30-7.30: WINE RECEPTION, Green Room

Thursday 29 June

9.00-9.30: REGISTRATION, outside Banqueting Hall

9.30-10.30: KEYNOTE PAPER, Banqueting Hall

  • Dr. Mo Throp, Chelsea College of Arts, UAL
    Fine Art Practice, The Female Body and Spectatorship

10-45-12.30: PARALLEL SESSIONS, PART 3

3A: RESISTANCE, FRAGMENTATION AND THE GAZE
10.45-12.30, Parallel Session, Banqueting Hall
  • Denise Ackerl, Chelsea College of Arts, UAL
    The ‘fascioned’ body: a case study of the collaged online erotic gaze
  • Harriette Richards, Western Sydney University
    A Broken Gaze: The Ambivalence of Looking
  • Stephanie Spindler, Chelsea College of Arts, UAL
    Materialist Encounter: Enactment of Corporeal Practice
3B: THE BODY AND JUDGEMENT
10.45-12.30, Parallel Session, Red Room
  • Dr. Rosa Crepax, Goldsmiths, University of London
    Online Audiences and the Fashion Gaze Through Internalisation and Semantic Alterations
  • Lauren Downing Peters, Stockholm University
    Looking Fat in a Slender World: The Dialectic of Seeing and Becoming in Jen Davis’ “Eleven Years”
  • Renate Stauss, London College of Fashion, UAL
    In the land of mirrors: vêtothérapie / fashion therapy in France. On forced forms of self-reflection and image-based notions of a fashion-able self.
3C: BEYOND THE BINARY
10.45-12.30, Parallel Session, Lecture Theatre
  • Dr. Ope Lori, UAL and Leeds College of Art
    Caster; In Honour of Her and All Those Who Are to Follow
  • Eda Çakmak,Fashion Theorist, Blogger and Educator, Istanbul
    Colleen Siviter, Writer, TV Producer and Editor. New York
    The Glitter Hive: Fashion, Femininities and Cross Cultural Queer Narratives
  • Dr. Catherine Baker, University of Hull
    Queer female spectatorship, masculinities, and the gaze: revisiting the desire/identification/fashion cycle
  • Sophie Bramley, University of Leeds
    Photographic protest: Transgender ‘hypervisibility’ in the work of Bettina Rheims.

12.30-1.30: LUNCH, outside Banqueting Hall

1.30-3.00: PARALLEL SESSIONS, PART 4

4A: (IN)VISIBILITY: OLDER WOMEN AND THE GAZE
1.30-3.00, Parallel Session, Banqueting Hall
  • Noor Bhangu, University of Winnipeg
    “Shadow Archives: Thinking Through Diasporic Fashionability.”
  • Shalini Gupta,  Pearl Academy Delhi
    Age and ‘The Gaze’ in Urban India
  • Dr. Naomi Woodspring, University of the West of England
    Seeing and Being Seen: On older women and the gaze
4B: FRAMING THE GAZE IN SPACE AND TIME
1.30-3.00, Parallel Session, Red Room
  • Bethan Bide, University of London and the Museum of London
    Materiality and the researcher’s gaze: rethinking what it means to look at historical clothes in a museum collection
  • Dr. Felice McDowell, London College of Fashion, UAL
    Gazing into her space: the mediatization of fashionable lives in ‘The Top Shelf’
  • Dr. Alexis Romano, R􀀵ecent 􀀪raduate of the Courtauld Institute of Art, London
    Reframing the Gaze: Prêt-à-porter and the Urban Fabric in 1960s French Magazines
4C: OBJECTS MADE FOR THE GAZE: MANNEQUINS, VIRTUAL REALITY AND GENETICALLY MODIFIED WOMEN
1.30-3.00, Parallel Session, Lecture Theatre
  • Rosemary Cronin, Artist, Writer and Lecturer, London
    How can contemporary artists and pop culture figures interrupt a loaded and historic gaze? How can phallic signifiers be hacked to open up gender politics?
  • Jade Dillon, Mary Immaculate College, University of Limerick
    Mirror, Mirror: Establishing the Gendered Gaze in Louise O’Neill’s Only Ever Yours
  • June Rowe, University of the Arts London
    Bodies made for Gazing: The Spectacle of the Fashion Display Mannequin

3.00-3.30: TEA AND COFFEE

3.30-5.15: PARALLEL SESSIONS, PART 5

5A: PRODUCING IMAGES OF THE SELF FOR THE GAZE
3.30-5.15, Parallel Session, Banqueting Hall
  • Dr. Andrea Kollnitz, Stockholm University
    Compelling Gazes. Empowering Self-Representation in the Life and Work of Leonor Fini
  • Leren Li, Royal College of Art, London
    Beyond the Photoshopped Sherman: Manipulating and Exhibiting Female Gaze Through Fashion Photography in the Digital Age
  • Dr. Dawn Woolley, Anglia Ruskin University
    The Internalised Dissecting Gaze of the ‘Cutting Scalpel Eye’: Fashioned Bodies on Social Networking Sites
5B: LIFE DRAWING WITH GRACE ADAM
3.30-5.15, Parallel Session, Red Room
  • Grace Adam, University of the Arts London
    The Agreement. Life Drawing: Power. Authority; Control and the gaze; Curious looking.
5C: CELEBRITY, POWER AND THE GAZE
3.30-5.15, Parallel Session, Lecture Theatre
  • Dr. Rosie Findlay, London College of Fashion, UAL
    “Inspired by real life”: Examining ‘aspirational realness’ on the websites of Glossier and Maryam Nassir Zadeh
  • Emma McClendon, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York
    Who Wore It Better?: Fashion, Celebrity, and the Culture of Judgment
  • Ellen Nolan, University for the Creative Arts, Rochester
    The experience of being looked at
  • Dr. Ellen Wright, De Montfort University, Leicester
    ‘This will be your version of what happened’: Performance, Perspective and Control in Jackie (2015)

5.30-6.00: CLOSING REMARKS, Banqueting Hall

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